Adjusting lifters used to be a common practice when our antique vehicles were new. It's true a few engines came with hydraulic lifters that did not need adjusting but for the most part all engines and especially performance engines came with solid lifters that required adjusting on a regular basis. Today...adjusting lifters has almost become a lost art.
The accuracy of your lifter adjustment can have a huge effect not only on the performance of the engine but also on the overall life of the engine. If you read the shop manuals of the day they will explain how to adjust lifters resulting in an average job. The final result will be "close enough" and be within factory specifications for the average line mechanic who has to balance the time allotted according to the "Flat Rate" manual, and the end result.
But what if there was a way to adjust lifters that was extremely accurate yet amazingly simple, the way the cam grinders do it and the way professional drag racers do it, to gain any advantage over the competition. Even in our antique vehicle engines we can do it to get the maximum performance from our engines. We would get the full horsepower and torque that was designed into our engines from the factory.
I want to thank customer and friend Mike Ready who shared this technique that he learned from his father who was a heavy duty truck diesel mechanic. Mike's father learned this technique as a way to time the diesel fuel injectors on diesel engines. He then determined it would also work as a way to accurately adjust valve lifters. He was correct and lucky for us he taught his son Mike how to do it and Mike has agreed to share it with us.
I had seen this done by one of the local mechanics growing up who raced stock cars on a dirt track back in the 1970's, so I know this works. The local mechanic tried to explain it to me then... but I confess I did not pay much attention, I had other priorities. So thanks to Mike... who did pay attention to his father...we can follow along and learn how to adjust lifters accurately. You will be surprised at the difference it makes.
"TEETER AND ADJUST" LIFTER / TAPPET ADJUSTMENT METHOD taught to me by my dad 53 years ago. By Mike Ready
For want of a name for this procedure I call it "Teeter and Adjust". When I refer to the word "Teeter" this is what I mean by this word. When you are looking at a pair of lifters / tappets that are in the overlap phase we want to rock the crank back and forth watching for both of the tops of these lifters / tappets to be the same exact height. This is one of the critical parts of this procedure.
Finding this spot on the cam sets the lifters / tappets on the cam lobes of the opposite cylinder in the firing order for adjusting / setting the clearance. The purpose of this is to get these lifters / tappets on that opposite cylinder as close to the center line on the base circle of the cam, which is opposite of the nose of the cam lobe on that lobe to adjust / set the clearance.
The "Teetered" lifters / tappets will be up in the open position in the "overlap" position. There for, the opposite cylinder lifters / tappets will be in the down closed position. I hope this is clear as understanding this is key to doing this right.
The procedure is done like this;
1 – Find and write down the firing order of the engine.
2 – Draw a line dividing this firing order in to 2 groups of numbers (for example; a 4 cylinder would have 2 numbers on each side of the line, 6 will have 3 on each side, 8 will have 4 on each side of the line and so on for engines with more cylinders.
3 – Position cylinder number 1 on top dead center. Accuracy is important you want to be at exactly top dead center!
4 – Look at the first number after the line on the RIGHT group of numbers and see what cylinder that is.
5 – Look at that cylinder’s lifters / tappets and by rocking the crank back and forth get each lifter / tappet exactly the same height on their top edge of the lifter / tappet. These will be in the open "overlap" position on those lobes.
6 – At this point in this procedure, the lifters / tappets on the opposite cylinder (in this case number 1) are exactly on the base circle and as close to the center line of that cam lobe as possible. It is now time to set that clearance of those 2 lifters / tappets (on number 1).
These will be the numbers on the LEFT side of the line.
All you have to do now is look at the next cylinder in the firing order and find its opposite cylinder in the firing order - pair of lifters / tappets (the RIGHT group) and with a very little turn of the crank "Teeter" them to get them at the same equal height. Then adjust the lifter / tappets clearances of that cylinder opposite cylinder in the firing order just after number 1 in the LEFT group.
Move on down the line of the firing order numbers "Teetering & Adjusting" until you get to the end of the "Teetering" lifters (right of line).
At this point switch over to the cylinders (which will be on the LEFT of the line dividing your firing order into 2 groups) and "Teeter" these cylinder numbers lifters / tappets and adjusting their opposite cylinder that are on the Right of the line.
Once you have finished this group of cylinders you are all done.
I believe it requires only 2 complete turns of the crankshaft to complete this "Teeter & Adjust" procedure.
Now... why is this considered the best way to set the cam lifters / tappets for adjusting the clearances?
It positions the lifters / tappets on equal sides of the center line of the base circle of the cam lobe. Then when the clearance is adjusted / set it is VERY accurately set. Little to no chance for error and it is easy and a lot less work to do.
In the 50 years I have used dad’s method I have taught many mechanics how to use this method. It works on any even multiple cylinder engines. Be it a 4 cylinder to any number of even numbered cylinders. Flathead, "L" head, over head valve, over head cam.
In the 50 years of doing mechanic work on all sorts of vehicles, tractors, heavy equipment, and in 15 years of building racing car engines I have only found a very few who knew this method. I have yet to find it described in a book.
In all these years I have found, 2 pals that own a cam grinding company who each race cars, a few on race teams, and several diesel engine mechanics that knew and used this method.
Here is a "real life" example:
Using the firing order of a Model A Ford 4 cylinder engine 1243.
Write down the firing order & draw a line dividing this into 2 groups.
1 2 / 4 3
Start by putting #1 on TDC
Look at # 4’s lifters & teeter them into equal height
Adjust # 1’s lifters
Look at # 3’s lifters & teeter them into equal height
Adjust # 2’s lifters
At this point all cylinders on the left side of the line are adjusted & done. Now focus on the group for teetering that is on the LEFT side, the group that you just adjusted.
Look at # 1’s lifters & teeter them into equal height
Adjust # 4’s liftersLook at # 2’s lifters & teeter them into equal height
Adjust # 3’s lifters ---- Now you are all done
Note From Randy - You can use a flat blade feeler gauge like this one but a stepped feeler gauge works better. Make sure when you are measuring clearances that you are touching both surfaces so you get an accurate reading.
is like the ones like I grew up with. The ones on the right are the modern ones and a little easier to work with as you are only controlling one stepped blade with a handle attached. You can buy this set from your local auto parts store, it is Lisle part number 68050. Thanks Randy
Mike continues...you need no special tools for finding the correct spot to adjust the lifters. Also, you don’t jump around from one cylinder to another adjusting one lifter at a time. Instead you just follow the firing order & adjust BOTH lifters at the same time.
All you need to complete this job is: paper, pin/pencil, a stepped feeler gauge set, and the proper sized wrench.
Randy's final comments....These instructions are pretty simple to follow and in the end it will result in less work and a more accurate job, as compared to adjusting lifters the conventional way one at a time. That should put a smile on your face! I want to again thank Mike for sharing his knowledge.
This is a perfect example of learning from the previous generation and then passing it along to the younger generation. Everyone benefits especially the younger generation who is now able to own drive and maintain an antique vehicle. It makes driving an owning an antique vehicle more enjoyable when you know how things work and how to do the basic maintaince. That builds pride of ownership and you can't get that out of any book!
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