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The End Of An Era...

Posted on 6/13/18 with No comments

It looks kind of empty and hollow now, the gas pumps out front disappeared long ago. "Doc's" Garage was an institution. Located in Oak Hill Kansas population of fifty more or less... not located close to any town of size, with far more cows than people in the neighborhood. Orville Chartier or "Doc" as he was always known started out on the mid 1950's running the local service station at the edge of town. There were more people in town then... with a school and a post office.

A few years later he had polished his mechanical skills and needed more room to work. So he bought the building uptown that used to be a blacksmith shop and moved in. He would remain there for the next fifty years.

He would witness the town slowly fading away, the school closing, the post office disappearing, along with most of the businesses and families one by one. Doc was the last business on the two block gravel main street in recent years... until recently, when health issues finally took their toll.

I started going to Doc's when I was about 15 years old. It was like a step back in time. Doc was a patient person and would take the time to show you what he was working on and explain what was broken and how he planned to fix it. He could fix most anything, at least that was my view in those early days.

I went on to make regular visits two or three times a year for the next 40 years. During my visits to Doc's, I always got an education, some of it hands on.

For Example...There used to be an old pot belly stove in the office that he burned hedge wood in during the winter months. The building he was in was already fifty years old when he moved in some the windows were a little drafty and the walls had a few air gaps plugged with shop rags etc.

There was an old bar stool chair next to the wood stove. That is where you sat when you first came in from the cold.

One day on about my second or third visit I am sitting in the bar chair warming up and Doc comes in from the shop area to make out a bill...or so I assumed, as I had watched him do that many times.  The locals were lined up on the church pew and I was listening to the conversation... they having made it clear they did not need much input from me though not in so many words.

Doc comes in sits down at his old roll top desk and the next thing I know my behind is getting the heck shocked out of it and the locals are having a good laugh at my expense.

Doc just smiled finished making out his bill and went back into the shop. I figured out upon doing some investigation, that there was an old tractor magneto in the bottom drawer of that roll top desk with the wires running out in front of his parts counter on the floor well hidden by the water pump, starter and generator cores lined up on the floor. There were two 16 penny nails in the seat of that chair about two ass cheeks apart.

You only got it once unless you were a slow learner. But then it was fun to watch the next victim experience the same thing you did. When it is twenty degrees out and you come in and sit next to the stove... you mind is at idle and all you are thinking about is getting warm. I never forgot that lesson. It taught me to pay attention more to what is going on around me. It was a good lesson for a kid who was thinking he knew it all.

I have sought out and visited hundreds of garages like Doc's over the years and they all seem to operate about the same. The owners are very resourceful and with parts being delivered only once or twice a week, you had to make those deliveries count or drive 80 miles round trip to get what you forgot to order which also cost you a half days labor in addition to the gasoline.

In the back of my mind, I always compared the rest of the garages I visited, to Doc's. He kind of set the standard. With Doc's recent passing, his garage will be cleaned out, an auction held and the building sold. It will truly be the end of an era. I am glad to have experienced it first hand.

Ironically not much changed in the forty years since my first visit to Doc's Garage. There was some comfort in that. It was kind of like going home. The bar stool disappeared when the stove burned thru...If you know anything about hedge wood you know it burns hot and provides good heat, but it is awful hard on stoves.

There was never any indoor plumbing at Doc's there was a hydrant out on the drive and the bathroom was an out house even up until the end. Lighting was powered by knob and tube wiring and 150 watt bulbs. Doc used a trouble light where he was working. It was something you never questioned.

So.. I want to share with you a few pictures from the inside of Doc's Garage. These were taken in 2018 although they could have been taken in 1980 as well. I went down and helped the family identify some of the old parts and tools Doc had.  I am now 60 years old and it would be my chance to visit Doc's Garage one last time.


Doc needed something to help pull an engine out of a chassis so he made this lift bar out of an old axle. He used that for years.


All of his equipment was well used but it all worked.


Both of these were carried over from his service station days. The station was likely established in the 1920 or early 1930's.


Part of the line shaft equipment was still mounted to the ceiling from when the building was a blacksmith shop. Notice the old knob and tube wiring which was still being used.


This was in the shop area. There was a stove in the shop for heat but never any insulation in the walls or the ceiling. The lighting you see is all there was.



This was his cash drawer in the office. He rigged up a bell to the drawer so if anyone tried to get in it while he was working in the shop he could easily hear it.


The shelves behind his counter were full of parts both new and used. He seldom thru anything away because he might be able to use something off of a used part to fix something "to get by" until the new part showed up. He was very good at figuring out how to make something work with the used parts he had on hand.


Cleaning out these shelves we found parts he had bought in the late 1960's and did not use but kept on hand "just in case." It was like a treasure hunt. We also found parts for cars and trucks in the 1930's and 1940's. He had a system for locating parts in these shelves but nobody else could ever figure out how it worked.


How do you turn on the light behind the parts counter with your hands full? Simple...Use a dimmer switch with one side burnt out and mount it into an electrical box and set it on the floor. Then all you had to do was step on it to turn on the light.

He also did his bench grinder this way....walk up to it and step on the dimmer switch on the floor and it turned on. That worked good if you were working on something that required both hands to steady. Yep that is where I learned that trick.

I learned from Doc to look at things as how they function and not just at the application they were designed for. The dimmer switch was a good example. I used to just throw those away when one contact burned out. Not anymore....Thanks Doc!

So I hope you have had the same experiences I have had growing up and that there was a Doc in your neighborhood. We can learn a lot from the previous generation and we in turn need to pass that knowledge on to the next generation. This is stuff you can't learn from any book, you need to experience it first hand and then pass that opportunity along. Otherwise it will be lost forever!
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Remember Red Crown Valve Stem Caps...?

Posted on 6/5/18 with No comments

Hardly anyone today, remembers full service where they pumped your gasoline, washed your windshield, checked your oil, and the air in your tires. It was the same at most any gasoline station with one exception. At the local Standard Oil Gasoline Station, if you needed air they added it at no charge and put a set of these valve stem caps on to let the world know that you bought gasoline at the local Standard Oil Station. You got Red Crown valve caps if you bought regular gasoline or Gold Crown valve stems caps if you bought premium gasoline.


The "Red Crowns" were a reminder of the Red Crown Gasoline they sold. The Red Crown Caps were a likeness of the glass Red Crown globes on top of the gasoline pumps on the drive. The Red Crown was by far the most popular grade of gasoline they offered.  Red Crown gasoline was introduced sometime around 1914 along with White Crown (premium) gasoline which would become Gold Crown premium gasoline in 1951.


The Red Crown valve caps were nothing short of advertising genius. For just pennies the Standard oil dealer could advertise his gasoline on half the cars in town. In addition... if kids rode in on their bicycles they too could get a set of Red Crowns. And you know... as soon as one kid in the neighborhood got'em the rest were soon to follow.  Car owners and kids alike would come by the station to get something for free... just like they still do today. Station owners literally ordered the Red Crown valve stem caps by the hundreds.


The Red Crown Valve Stem caps were introduced sometime in the 1940's and lasted until about 1962. Their popularity was the strongest from about 1955 thru 1962. They introduced the Gold Crown Caps in 1951 to help market the new Gold Crown Gasoline. You seldom saw a set of Gold Crown Valve Stem caps, the Red Crowns always seemed to be more popular, the bright color seemed to be more eye catching.



The good news is both the Red Crown and the Gold Crown valve stem caps are now available in the parts department at Fifth Avenue. They became one of my nostalgia projects because of how popular they once were and the genius marketing idea they represent. It is the detail you need to set your antique vehicle apart from the rest. These are an exact match to the originals.



So a set of the Red Crowns (5) will set you back $10.00. The Gold Crown caps are the same price and also come in sets of (5).  These are the authentic red color of the originals. Postage is included.

If you want to make them look like they have been on your antique vehicle since the 1950's just set them out in the sun for a while the gloss will disappear and they will fade to a dull red and look just like a used set from the 1950's. Life is good !

Meanwhile... Here is more Standard Oil Red Crown gasoline history...




















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Tag Toppers Available For Your Business, Car Club Or Event...

Posted on 6/1/18 with No comments

I have been collecting license plate tag toppers for close to forty years, and have more than 200 different Tag Toppers in my collection. If you have read my other entry on Tag Toppers you know that I have reproduced some of the original design Tag Toppers with the Fifth Avenue logo for use on the Great Race cars. I also offer them to customers who what an original design auto advertising accessory to display on their antique vehicle. My current 2018 design features a reflectorized background, so it shows up at night.

Meanwhile...Here are a few of my originals....



Example of an early Tag Topper from the late 1940's.



This One Has Some Well Detailed Graphics...



Tag Toppers Came In All Shapes And Sizes...



This One Has Lots Of Detail And Is Porcelain... A Keeper.
                    

Example Of An Early "Downer" Tag Topper

 

This one was designed to go behind the chrome bezel of the trunk handle.

Tag Toppers are still a very effective way to advertise as I found out in 1993 when the car I sponsored in the Great Race won the Great Race Sportsman class and the driver Howard Sharp earned a 10 minute interview on national television.



    My first Tag Topper Design That Ended up on ESPN TV.

Howard Sharp the car owner did a sit down interview in front of his car with an ESPN reporter, and my tag topper was proudly on display attached to the front license plate bracket of his 1929 Dodge Sport Roadster, with my business name and phone number proudly on display! I got free advertising on national TV for ten minutes, and all I had invested was the cost of that tag topper. As I was watching I was thinking to my self... that tag topper was a dang good investment!



Howard now enters this 1915 Hudson in the Great Race with is son Douglas. Howard went on to win the Great Race twice more, in 2011 and again in 2015. I have sponsored Howard in the Great Race every year for more than 25 years and we have become good friends.

  

The Willys Overland Jeepster Club designed these and each of their 400 members in good standing got one in honor of the clubs 50th anniversary.

I often get asked if I can make custom Tag Toppers for car clubs, other businesses, and special events. The answer is yes, and have been making them off and on for about ten years but have not formally offered the service. But I am getting enough requests that I decided to explain the process and outline the options so if you want to have some made you will have some idea what is involved.

First up is the blanks. They are made of 20 thousandths thick aluminum (same thickness as an interstate road sign) so they are very durable and they will not rust.

As for the colors... you can use most any combination of up to five different ink colors, in addition to any background color so you could end up with six different colors  on a Tag Topper.  My current Tag Topper has 4 colors, Green, White, Red, Black, and the background color of yellow for a total of five colors.

Along with the colors you can screen the background to lighten a color to highlight a detail. The light green color in the background of my logo, is the same dark green color behind my telephone number. It has simple been screen down to thirty percent to give my logo some depth.  The black is also screened for the grill and front bumper.

Reverse type is also available, which is what I have done on the Fifth Avenue Tag Topper to draw attention to the telephone number.

Bleed to the edge... simply means that the background color can be printed out to the very edge of the Tag Topper and a non print boarder area is not necessary.



An example of reverse lettering on an early Tag Topper



Some Tag Toppers Were Even Embossed...

We can add most any logo or graphic along with most any lettering style. A lesson from the billboard company... simple is good and if you select a light colored background such as yellow or white, you should select a dark color of ink such as a black, dark brown, red or dark green. The better the contrast the more eye catching it will be.

We also offer a reflectorized background just like a modern road sign so your tag topper will show up at night. The Fifth Avenue Tag Topper examples shown at the top of the page are reflectorized.

Think about road signs, a stop sign for example, red background, white lettering. the colors catch your eyes and the message is easy to read from a distance. And once you have seen it you immediately recognize it again.



This is an example of a well designed Tag Topper. Notice the bright contrasting colors, the simple message and the logo. This one is easy to read from a distance and it is very eye catching!

The billboard people say an average driver has just 7 seconds to read an entire billboard message at 60 mph. that is why most billboards have a short simple message and a graphic to catch your eye.

The advantage to a Tag Topper is that while it is smaller in size than a billboard it will likely be in front of the car following you for a lot longer than seven seconds. And because antique vehicles tend to travel slower than their modern counterparts, you pretty much have a captive audience.

         

Uppers and Downers...refers to the mounting of the Tag Topper, it can be mounted to the top of a license plate or license plate bracket such as the one on a gravel pan behind the front bumper or the tag topper can be designed to mount hanging down such as on the headlight bar of a Model A Ford.



I use Tag Toppers to identify the cars I have prepared for the Great Race. This one is on a 1936 Ford police car.

A tag topper will usually mount to the front of modern cars and trucks, either as uppers or downers.

All of the ink used on Fifth Avenue Tag Toppers is UV resistant and fade resistant and is the same ink they use on interstate road signs.

That means you can power wash your tag topper at the car wash to get the bugs off without worrying about the ink coming off with it. All of the Fifth Avenue Tag Toppers have passed the Kansas June Bug Test... where you hit a Kansas June bug a 70 mph and there is no damage your tag topper. Sorry...we can't same the same for the June bug.

And last but not least the Fifth Avenue Tag Toppers are made in the USA by the same company that was established in 1946 to make what else...Tag Toppers identifying volunteer fire department members. That same company today, makes all kinds of graphics for fire trucks, ambulances, and rescue vehicles, police cars and the like.

They have kept up with technology and that is why we are able to offer multi-colored Tag Toppers, although they did not apply that technology to Tag Toppers until I showed up on their doorstep. They mainly use the multi-colored graphics on the firetruck, ambulance, and rescue vehicle graphic projects. I was happy to expand their horizons.

I worked in graphic arts for 20 years before I started Fifth Avenue, so I am able to design and layout all of my own books, catalogs, and advertising. I knew how to design tag toppers but I wanted authentic ones from a company who was established when tag toppers were popular. I also wanted them to be USA made.

I finally found a company and we compared notes and we are on the same page. Now here we are some ten years later and I am still making custom tag toppers. I do it for the fun of it, to keep a part of automotive advertising history alive. Some things you do for the fun of it, not the money. And the Tag Toppers I create today will be collectible in later years just as the originals are today.

A Tag Topper is a period correct automotive advertising accessory that is just as effective today as when they were popular in the the 1940's and 1950's.

So if you are interested in a custom tag topper for your business, a car club, or event drop me an email at fifthavegarage@gmail.com and show me what you have in mind. I will help you figure out and a design that will result in a good looking tag topper than you will be proud of. Below are some of the more popular ones I have done in the past.









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Your 6-volt Radio and Converting to 12-Volts...What You Need To Know

Posted on 5/1/18 with No comments

I get this question at least a half dozen times a week..."How come you don't have a reducer for my 6-volt radio? " The short answer is this..."Because of the amount of current your radio needs to work properly varies, due to things like to reception, sound level, and the voltage available (With the engine off less voltage will be delivered to the radio requiring more current from the battery as compared to engine running and generator output.

The voltage  delivered to the radio can range between 5 volts and 7 volts. A voltage reducer has no way to compensate for that variance in incoming voltage. Most voltage reducers have a 40 percent error rate, and to a radio that is a lot.

The Details - 

When the electrical load varies more than 10% that greatly affects the life of the vacuum tubes, and the parts inside of the radio itself. Your original 6-volt tube radio should never receive more than 8-volts... so if you are running an 8-volt battery your original radio will not be long for this world. That also goes for your dash gauges, bulbs, and anything else electrical.

Also keep in mind...that most voltage resistors are only about 50 % efficient. That means that when the voltage is reduced by half (from 12-volts down to 6 volts) the amperage output is also reduced by half.

In reality...that means that in order to get the 12 amps needed to start your radio, your electrical system would need to deliver 24 amps to the incoming side of the voltage reducer.  Now after the radio warm up and it only requires 8 amps of current to function, the incoming electrical load changes to 16 amps of current.

That is a huge variation in the electrical load so what usually happens is the radio voltage reducer is designed for an average between the high and low voltage. Because of the 40 percent error rate and having no way to adjust for the range in voltage is what causes problems for your radio.

The other concern... is what happens with the heat generated as the voltage reducer scrubs off the excess current. Think of this as driving down the highway with the emergency brake on. The faster you drive the more heat that will be generated. A voltage drop for a radio is equal to about 50 mph. Things will get damn hot!

Despite the best advice... I still see voltage reducers advertised for original tube type radios. The people selling the voltage reducers clearly do not know how they work or about the fire hazard they represent!

Even if your radio survives the fluctuations in voltage, your car may not.  The chances of your antique vehicle catching on fire from an overheated voltage reducer is very real. I have seen a half dozen antique vehicles over the years... catch fire and were destroyed from an overheated voltage regulator.

Imagine what would happen inside of your house if the voltage varied forty percent? Any type of voltage reducer that works off of resistance (which is about 90 percent of those sold for original tube type radios) will kill off your radio within the first year they are installed.



This type of voltage reducer has been around sine the 1970's.

And just so you know...it doesn't matter it the voltage reducer is encased in ceramic like the old school ones, or attached to a block of aluminum to serve as a heat sink... the end result will be the same!

This is a modern version of the old school ceramic voltage reducer.

By contrast, if you were to convert your original 6-volt radio to 12 volts, your radio would require just five amps to function. By converting your radio to 12 volts, solid state tubes, and vibrators can also be installed which will eliminate the warm up time. There are 12-volt tubes and vibrators available for most 6-volt radios. The radio would come on and play immediately just like a modern radio does today. In addition, features like FM can be added. The outside of the radio will look and function the same as it always did.

You can also get solid state rectifiers and leave the tube sockets empty (most of the time they will epoxy a washer over the tube sockets so nobody tries to replace the tubes) or they can change the rectifier socket to a mini and use a 12 x 4 rectifier.

They will also change the dial lights and make sure the outside of the case is marked 12 volts. That is a much more reliable and safer solution and one that will last for many years. You have a lot of options that come with your upgrade to 12-volts.

There are dozen of radio shops still around that can convert your original 6-volt radio to 12-volts and keep the original looks and function.

So...that is why I do not offer a voltage reducer for your radio and now that you know how they work, you know to stay away from them as well.



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A "DA Plug..." The Solution To A Common Problem

Posted on 4/24/18 with No comments

The often misunderstood Fifth Avenue "DA Plug" has been around since 1987.  It came about out of necessity, and while the job it has to do is simple, it is very important. Let's have a look....

When you install an alternator on an antique vehicle that originally had a generator charging system, good things happen. You will have a charging output at idle and low rpms, something the generator charging system could not provide.

That gives you brighter headlights and easier starting because the battery is now fully charged and remains that way.  The alternator now provides the current to power the headlights instead of the battery as it did with the generator charging system.

Having the alternator provide all of the electrical current makes is possible for the battery to only be used for starting, with the current quickly replaced in the battery from the alternator after starting.  The less times the battery is deeply discharged and then recharged, the longer it will last. That is why the batteries in modern vehicles last so much longer.

The one downside of installing an alternator on an antique vehicle is that your antique vehicle will no longer shut off using the original ignition key. That is because the alternator produces an electrical output at idle (whereas the generator did not) so even though you turn off the ignition key, the output current from the alternator at idle, will travel backwards thru the ignition switch keeping the ignition coil "hot" which allows the engine to keep running!

This same thing happened to the engineers in Detroit when they switched to an alternator type charging system. Their solution was a little more complicated. They developed the "accessory post" type of ignition switch with an extra "accessory" terminal that was isolated from the rest of the terminals on the ignition switch.

The alternator was wired to that post, and that allowed current to flow from the ignition switch to the alternator but not backwards from the alternator thru the ignition switch. So when the new design switch was turned off the current stopped at the accessory post and the ignition coil no longer received battery current. Without battery current...the engine died. Problem solved!

Many of the "experts" will tell you to do as Detroit did and go get, and install an "accessory" type ignition switch and life will be good. That is true, however...in many applications an "accessory type ignition switch will not fit in the same place as the original ignition switch, and in some cases you just don't want to loose the look and fit of the original switch.




Example of a typical aftermarket "accessory" type ignition switch.

That was the situation I was in. I decided their had to be an easier way to fix this problem. After many months of experimenting the DA Plug was born. The DA Plug simply snaps into the top of a standard GM style internal regulated alternator (the standard alternator on all types of 1973 thru 1985 GM vehicles). That style of alternator remains popular even today because of its easy mounting, the fact that it is internally regulated, and its bullet-proof reliability.

I build the DA Plugs using heavy duty ISO 9001 rated electrical diodes to be sure your antique vehicle will shut off using the original ignition switch with no modifications.  A diode is simply a one way electrical valve and only lets current flow in one direction. The DA Plug also "turns on" you alternator so it begins to charge as soon as you vehicle is started.

That is important because the idle speed of your antique vehicle is slower than the 1200 rpms idle speed of cars when the alternators were introduced in the late 1960's. So to make the alternator start charging sooner that it was designed to start charging the DA plug send a little battery current to the alternator when the ignition key is turned on which tells the alternator to "go to work!"

While I was at it I made the DA Plugs compatible with 6-volt, 12-volt, and 24-volt,  electrical systems, because I also convert a few antique military vehicles from generator to alternator that still have the 24-volt electrical systems.

Thirty plus years later... the DA Plugs are still as popular as ever. I still make them here in the Good Old USA, and the price has only changed once in 30 years, from $15.00 to $18.00.

The yellow exciter wire comes plenty long enough to reach from the alternator back to the ignition switch or ignition coil, so there is no wire splicing. The other short red wire connects to the battery stud on the alternator and tells the regulator inside of the ignition what to do. It is as simple as that. Instructions are included in the package.

To get a genuine DA Plug look for the red and yellow wiring like shown in the picture above. I sell DA Plugs on the Fifth Avenue website and thru vendors like Speedway Motors.  Typically they are NOT available at the local auto parts store. I have tried but they do not see the need for a DA Plug. Many counter men "get it" and send customers to me which is fine as long as the problem gets solved.


If you go to the local auto parts store and ask for an alternator wiring harness...this is what you typically get. It will NOT do you much good if you are installing an alternator on an antique vehicle. You will have no way to turn off the engine with the ignition switch...

A Note About 1-Wire Alternators -
A one wire alternator is designed to start charging about 1200 or greater engine rpms. One wire alternators were originally designed for racing applications where there was not much electrical load and the engine ran at higher engine rpms.

A one wire alternator stores up magnetism in the rotor from the last time it operated. When the rotor speed reaches high enough rpms the magnetism is released and the alternator begins to charge. If the rpms drop below the alternator's cut-in speed, the alternator will quit charging until the rpms are increased. If the vehicle sets for a month or longer the alternator can loose the magnetism in the rotor.

That is why a one wire alternator typically does not work well in an antique vehicle application. Most antique vehicles do not have a high enough idle speed to make the alternator start to charge.

The internal voltage regulators in a one-wire alternator are different than a conventional alternator so you CAN NOT just add a DA plug to fix your one-wire alternator charging problem at idle. You will need to change out the one wire internal regulator for a conventional two wire regulator and then use a DA Plug to live happily ever after.

How do you know if you have a one-wire alternator? You will see a black rubber plug where the DA Plug would normally go. That is your clue that you have a one-wire alternator.



Rubber plug identifying a one-wire alternator.

So now you know what a DA Plug is and what it does. It is a simple fix for a common problem and is part of what you need for a reliable charging system.

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The Flathead Ford Fix Is In...

Posted on 3/29/18 with No comments
I work on a lot of Flathead Ford powered vehicles, and...much like a vehicle entered in the Great Race... you need to address three primary issues to make your Flathead a reliable driver, one that will take you anywhere you want to go. Those issues include the electrical, the cooling and the fuel. If you get those three things working properly life will be good. Let's take a look at each system separately and I will explain what you need to address and why. So pay attention here...




A 1950 Ford is a good example of a car that can be made into a reliable driver

First is the electrical. You know from reading my other Garage Tech articles that the difference between an alternator and a generator...is the alternator has the ability to recharge the battery at idle and low rpms, something a generator cannot do. That helps with the dead batteries and dim headlights and the hard starting.  You also know by now, the importance of the correct size battery cables (use at least one gauge) for both the positive and negative posts on the battery, AND be sure and move the ground so it connects to a starter mounting bolt or as close to the starter as you can get. Your goal is to create a direct path between the battery and the starter so all of the current needed from the battery gets delivered directly to the starter. In simple terms...it will increase your cranking power 30 percent. That should get your attention. You also want to be sure you have a clean metal to metal connection at the starter ground and include a toothed star washer under the bolt head.






A wide selection of alternator pulleys are available to cover most any application


If you are using an alternator (I manufacture both 6-volt and 12-volt alternators) you want to use a one piece pulley on your alternator. The pressed tin spot welded two piece pulleys common to most generators (and some alternators) will break and separate when belt wears thru spot welds in the groove of the pulley. When the pressed tin pulley separates from the alternator, it usually ends up in the radiator. That two dollar pulley can end up costing you a fortune. I have lifetime guarantee on all my pulleys and you know if the Great Racers have not yet destroyed one it is not from a lack of trying. If my alternator pulleys will hold up to that environment, they will survive most anything.


Special alternator pulley for use with mechanical fan mounted to the alternator pulley


But...you say... "I have a 1936  Ford with the mechanical fan mounted to the generator pulley, bet you don't have a fix for that? Well guess what...I do! I have an aluminum one piece pulley that will accept your mechanical engine fan that will bolt onto either the 89 or 90 series alternators. It is made of solid aluminum so it will not destroy the from bearing in the alternator. Using a heavy steel pulley large enough for the mechanical engine fan would wear out the front bearing in the alternator, which is why they had a double row bearing in the early Ford generators.



Fifth Avenue 6-volt alternator mounted on a 1950 Ford Flathead engine

I also have alternator mounting brackets that will work for the Flathead Ford, Lincoln and Mercury engines. It mounts the alternator up in the same position as the old generator was, and the belt adjust procedure is the same as before.



Alternator mounting bracket allows for the same belt adjustment procedure as before

I also have a host of different alternator pulley combinations to accept either the early Ford "B" width fan belts or the later 3/8" fan belts. I also have dual groove pulleys that have the "B" width in the inside and a 3/8 on the outside so you can power modern accessories like an A/C compressor from the alternator pulley. I also have dual groove 3/8 pulleys and dual groove "B" width pulleys, you get the idea.




Fifth Avenue has a wide pulley selection to cover most any application



Stainless coolant overflow tank is available from Fifth Avenue

Next up is cooling. First off you need some kind of coolant overflow tank. Then a 2 - 3 pound pressure cap is enough to transfer the coolant back and forth. It will also raise the boiling point of the coolant slightly, which is a good thing.

Your goal is to keep the outside air out of the cooling system. When your radiator overflows it pushes coolant out on the ground, when it cools it will draw outside air into the cooling system. then...the next time the engine gets up to operating temperature the outside air mixes with the water in the cooling system and a steam pocket is formed. If that steam pocket expands enough it can slow or even stop the circulation of coolant thru the engine block. You know what happens then, cracked block, usually between the two middle cylinders, a common Flathead Ford experience.

Remember there was not permanent year around anti-freeze when these cars were new, Most anti-freeze in the early days was alcohol based and would evaporate out in the summer months. That is why it was common practice to drain the antifreeze out in the summer months, and replace it with water. Flathead engines will run warmer with a 50/50  mixture of modern antifreeze in the summer months, than they will if straight distilled water is used. Don't forget to add a pint of water pump lubricant in with the water,  (which was water soluble oil (brake fluid ) in the old days.

Electric Radiator Cooling Fan - 
Also...an electric radiator cooling fan is a good investment and I have them for both 6-volt and 12-volt applications. When you shop for one, look for a ball bearing motor, they will use less electricity and last about three times longer.






Also look for ten blades that are straight like helicopter blades (remember you are in the air moving business) which is why you are going to add an electric fan in the first place.  I know they sell curved blades which are quieter but they are also less efficient.  Just remember the helicopter analogy.... Helicopters depend more on air moving than you do... so if a curved blade was more efficient ...than helicopter blades would be curved. They aren't... and yours shouldn't be either. Also watch the pitch of the blades, the more aggressive the pitch the more air the fan will move...but the bigger motor it will require. Your goal is to help the radiator transfer the heat out of the coolant. That happens when air passes thru the radiator. Anything you can do to help that along will be to your benefit.




You want a ball bearing motor for a long service life!


Here is an example of an electric radiator cooling fan installed on a 1950 Ford. The electrical system is still 6-volt. The fan reduced the operating temperature of this car 25-30 degrees which meant the owner could now drive in the annual local parade and enjoy cruise night without social embarrassment. It is more fun to be a participant in cruise night than it is to have to sit along the sidelines after two laps because your car overheated... in front of everyone.





And then their is this if your Flathead is non stock or you are entered in the Great Race or you want a cooling system you never have to worry about.  This is what I use in the cooling system of Great Race cars and especially in antique vehicles built in the teens and twenties that have a non-pressurized cooling system and no water pump to circulate the coolant, that instead depend on thermal-siphon cooling. The Model T Ford is a good example. This coolant also works great in a Flathead Block.



Evans Waterless coolant boils at 370 degrees and freezes at minus 80 degrees

Evans Coolant boils at 370 degrees and freezes at minus 80 with no pressure in the cooling system. It is a waterless lifetime coolant. It is expensive initially...but it pays for itself many times over in the long run. You never have to worry about overheating again!




Fifth Avenue Gear Driven Electric Fuel Pump

Lastly is fuel. An electric fuel pump is almost a must these days and you need a Fifth Avenue gear driven electric fuel pump that will survive the modern gasoline. (to read more about electric fuel pumps (see electric fuel pumps in the garage tech section). You also need to add a pint of diesel fuel to ten gallons of gasoline, when you fill up.

That will do two things....it will raise the boiling point of the gasoline so it does not vaporize so quick, and it will lubricate the gaskets in the carburetor so they will not shrink. The alcohol in modern fuel causes the gaskets in the carburetor to shrink leaving you with a leaking carburetor. If you try and over tighten the screws in the top of the carburetor to stop the leaks, one of two things will happen, you will warp the top of the carburetor or...strip out the screws or damage the carburetor housing itself...none of which is good.

The alcohol in modern gasoline also swells up the diaphragms (causing them to tear) in the old Stewart Warner electric fuel pumps that we all used for years. The modern gasoline also destroys the modern rotary vein style electric pumps (the modern gasoline provides no lubrication so the veins just grind themselves up much like you sawed graham crackers in kindergarten.





The inner workings of a Fifth Avenue electric fuel pump

The Fifth Avenue pumps have two stainless steel gears inside and are unaffected by the modern alcohol gasoline and modern fuel additives. They are available for both 6-volt and 12-volt applications. So if you address these three basics... you will be on you way to having a reliable car that will take you anywhere you want to go.

All the parts mentioned in this Garage Tech article are available in the "PARTS" section of the Fifth Avenue website. Now you know how they work.
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Since 1987, Fifth Avenue owner, Randy Rundle, has been making antique, classic and special interest vehicles more reliable and fun to drive.